Sundays Around Doon- Jhanda Mela

Photo byhim ahuja

Tell me frankly… when was the last time you went to a mela? Yes, a typical mela with the ‘wooden jhoolas’ (swings), kulfis, wheelspins and stuff like that. Yes, everybody goes to Delhi, Shimla, Mussoorie and Thailand for a change from work. But what about the ‘change’ available right in the middle of your own city? Try it for a change, and go with a curious, open mind. You won’t be disappointed.

‘Jhanda Mela’ is no ordinary mela. If you didn’t know already, it is the oldest fair cum ritual congregation in the Doon valley. The only other fair that comes close to it is the Rajpur fair. And it is sadly, history now. Every year, lakhs of devotees from all over North India collect at the ‘Darbar Sahib’ to pay tributes at the cenotaphs of Guru Ram Rai, his Ranis and other Mahants..

The ‘interestingness’ of Jhanda mela is not just due to its historicity. Though ofcourse, once you stand at the doors of the ‘Darbar Sahib’s western entrance, you can view the exotic paintings at the walls with awe. They are a showcase of the rare style of the Garhwal school of painting. You can also spot a portrait of the painter, Tulsi Ram himself. Don’t forget to look up at the arch- it has a beautiful portrayal of a scene from ‘Indra-sabha’. Go in towards the back, and the cenotaphs of the Ranis in the garden sport many more such paintings. The curious ones will have to be more adventurous. The ‘samadhi-sthal’ of the other ‘Mahants’ is located right behind the ‘Darbar Sahib’ in the lane.

Photo by him ahuja

You will definitely find a lot of variety at the Jhanda Mela – horoscope tellers, jadi-booti sellers, kulfi-wallahs, toy-trains and quaint, little artifacts that we are losing sight of rapidly. Go upstairs to the roof of the Darbar Sahib. I’m sure you won’t find such a sight of Dehradun from elsewhere. Take a stroll in the gardens; despite the lack of maintenance, the typical mughal-styled gardens are still interesting in their unique layout and architecture. Take a round from the ‘Darshani Deodhi’ to the ‘talaab’. Have a look in the central kitchen and see how the culture of community service is still alive in the way dozens of men and women prepare and serve ‘langars’ to everyone who is humble enough to partake. Go ahead, if you feel hungry or if just the sight and smell of the ‘langar’ lured you.

If it’s time to leave, pay your tributes at the new flagpole. And don’t forget to take back with you a taste of history, magic, some stuff for your home, and the delicious ‘chaat’ you get only there.